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How to Install a Deadbolt Lock (Step-by-Step with Photos)
Replacing a deadbolt is a quick DIY that boosts security. Follow these simple steps to mark, drill, and install a new deadbolt on a standard door.
What you’ll need
- Deadbolt (single- or double-cylinder) — shop deadbolts
- Hole saw: 2-1/8″ (54 mm) with pilot bit
- Drill and 1″ spade/auger bit (edge bore)
- Chisel (3/4″ recommended) and hammer/mallet
- Pencil, tape measure, and masking tape
- Phillips screwdriver
- Safety glasses
Good to know: Most residential doors use a backset of 2-3/8″ (some use 2-3/4″). Many latches are adjustable.
Step-by-step installation
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Step 1 — Mark the door
Measure and mark the deadbolt backset from the door edge to the center point (typically 2-3/8″). Mark the desired height, then mark the center point on the door edge directly in line with your backset mark.
Mark the backset and the edge bore center. -
Step 2 — Drill the holes
Using a 2-1/8″ hole saw, drill from one side until the pilot bit just exits the opposite face. Finish the cut from the other side to prevent tear-out.
Then drill a 1″ hole into the door edge at your mark until it intersects the large hole.
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Step 3 — Install and mortise the latch
Insert the latch into the 1″ edge bore with the latch bevel facing the door jamb. Trace around the latch plate. Chisel a shallow mortise (about 1/8″) so the plate sits flush. Reinsert and fasten with the included screws.
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Step 4 — Fit the exterior cylinder
From the outside, seat the exterior deadbolt cylinder flush to the door. Ensure the torque blade (tongue) passes vertically through the latch hub and the mounting holes align.
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Step 5 — Attach the interior turn piece
Slide the interior rosette/turn piece onto the torque blade. Insert the machine screws through the interior plate and thread into the exterior cylinder’s tapped holes. Tighten evenly—do not over-tighten or skew the lock.
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Step 6 — Install the strike plate
Close the door and mark where the bolt meets the jamb. Drill a 1″ diameter pocket at least 1″ deep. Trace the strike, chisel a shallow mortise so it sits flush, then fasten it with screws.
Pro tips
- Place painter’s tape where you drill to reduce splintering.
- Pre-drill pilot holes for screws—especially in hardwood doors/jambs.
- If your door uses a 2-3/4″ backset, many latches adjust—check the instructions.
- If the bolt rubs, move the strike slightly toward the rubbing side or deepen the pocket.
Deadbolt FAQs
What’s the difference between single- and double-cylinder deadbolts?
Single-cylinder deadbolts use a key outside and a thumb-turn inside. Double-cylinder use keys on both sides (often restricted by local code because they can slow egress in emergencies).
What size holes and backset do I need?
Standard deadbolts fit a 2-1/8″ face bore and a 1″ edge bore. Most residential doors use a 2-3/8″ backset; some use 2-3/4″.
Will this work on a metal or fiberglass door?
Yes, with the correct bits and care to avoid denting. Follow the same measurements and use sharp hole saws rated for the material.
What door thickness does a typical deadbolt fit?
Most include hardware for 1-3/8″ to 1-3/4″ thick doors. Check your product specs for adapters beyond that range.
Ready to upgrade?
Explore reliable, easy-install options in our curated collection of single- and double-cylinder deadbolts.
